Paragon Arcade, Hull

click photo to enlarge
Whenever I express my enthusiasm for the Victorian shopping arcade I find someone voicing their agreement. There's something about the shelter, light, architecture, ornament, cosiness, and atmosphere of them that appeals to people. Not all people, however. Quite a few traders find the shop spaces too small for their needs and it's a fact that only certain kinds of businesses can flourish in these old arcades. Often it is smaller, independent, niche retailers. Clothes, musical instruments, confectionery, jewellery, books, hair-dressing and cafes are typical of the goods and services to be found in them. Of course, Victorian arcades tend to be found in the centres of cities so rents are relatively high and consequently retailers have to generate good sales to afford the small premises. Perhaps it's this that results in what appears, to my eyes at least, the higher than normal turnover of businesses in them. That's not to say that some don't flourish for decades: I can think of one arcade that has had the same joke shop and hi-fi retailer for at least the past forty years.

The Paragon Arcade in Hull city centre has a short and straight configuration - many are curved or have a right angle turn or a transeptal arrangement. It was built in 1892 by W.A. (later Sir Alfred) Gelder, a prominent Hull architect and politician who became Lord Mayor, and after whom one of the city's main streets is named. It is in the Venetian Gothic style and retains much of its original character. But, like most shops, the upper storeys are least altered and in this case the glazed roof is intact too. The glass is supported by highly ornate arches of cast iron.

The Paragon Arcade is a good, but not outstanding example of the type. It is modest, unlike the massive splendour of London's Leadenhall Market. Its ornament, though fine, cannot compete with that of The Royal Arcade, Norwich. And its glazing doesn't have the railway station scale of Southport's Leyland Arcade. But, its relatively modest scale notwithstanding, it is an ornament in the centre of the city where it stands.

photograph and text © Tony Boughen

Camera: Nikon D5300
Mode: Aperture Priority
Focal Length: 60mm (90mm - 35mm equiv.)
F No: f7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/100 sec
ISO:280
Exposure Compensation: -0.33 EV
Image Stabilisation: On

England's shopping arcades

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The forerunners of today's ubiquitous indoor shopping malls are the covered passages and arcades that began to be built in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries and reached their greatest popularity during Victoria's reign. It is thought that the descriptions and enthusiasm of travellers for the bazaars of places such as Cairo and Constantinople triggered their growth. However, Britain had long had its own tradition of narrow shopping streets such as York's "Shambles", and small covered markets below the wooden columns that supported grammar schools or guildhalls are not difficult to find in market towns, nor are shopping areas built under grander buildings.

However, in terms of arcades proper, the Royal Opera Arcade at Haymarket in London, a development of 1817 by the architects John Nash and G.S. Repton is usually considered the first. It ran along one side of the Royal Opera House and managed to survive when the theatre burnt down in 1867. Perhaps the most acclaimed London arcade is the Burlington Arcade that opened in 1818. It is 585 feet long, specialised in expensive articles including jewellery, and enjoyed a prime location next to Old Bond Street. Interestingly, in a precursor to a widespread policy seen today, it had its own security staff to keep the behaviour of the public at a seemly level. The arcade shown in today's photographs, Leadenhall Market on Gracechurch Street, London, dates from 1881, a time when arcade building was rampant throughout the land. This was conceived by the architect, Sir Horace Jones, designer of Tower Bridge, Smithfield Market and Old Billingsgate Market, as well as much else. Leadenhall is a weekday market that specialises mainly in food. I came upon it late on Saturday afternoon when the only people present were those taking a shortcut down its echoing cobblestones. The arcade was extensively redecorated in 1990-91 and still presents a fine sight to the visitor.

As I took my photographs I couldn't help but think that it had something of the character of a cathedral with its columns, "nave/chancel", transepts and glazed crossing tower. Even the decorative scheme of the underside of the latter wouldn't look out of place in a cathedral.

photographs and text (c) T. Boughen

Photo 1
Camera: Canon
Mode: Aperture Priority
Focal Length: 24mm
 F No: f7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/125 sec
ISO: 2000
Exposure Compensation:  -0.33 EV
Image Stabilisation: On

Royal Arcade, Norwich

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In a recent post I suggested that the buildings that survive the bulldozer are those built in the right place to high standards. I could have added that structures exhibiting qualities before their time also have a chance of a long life. In that group of buildings stands the arcade, the forerunner of today's shopping malls.

Victorian shopping arcades can be found across the UK. Glass roofed, with rows of small shops, each with an entrance door and window, sometimes single storey, often with two levels, cross-shaped or simply linear, these arcades have seen their ups and downs over the decades, but have sufficient charms and economic attractions that they still exist today.

One of my early posts shows the Leyland Arcade at Southport, Lancashire, a fine example from 1898. Today's photograph shows the Royal Arcade, Norwich, built the following year. What makes this example special is the entrance front at Back of the Inns, and the decorative scheme, which is the closest that English Arts and Crafts gets to the Art Nouveau of Continental Europe. It is by George Skipper, a gifted provincial architect, who went on to design in the Edwardian Baroque style. In this building the arcade's plan is a "T" shape, with a single transept branching off the main thoroughfare. The entrance is a scheme in Doulton-made coloured glazed tiles (faience) by W. J. Neatby. The stylized, inverted heart-shaped flowers, the stained glass flowers/trees and the characteristic lettering are all Art Nouveau in style. So too is the female head framed by elongated wings at the apex of the concave gable. Inside the building are bow-fronted shop windows and a colourful frieze that includes peacocks and flowers. The striking lamp shades and the floor details date from a sympathetic restoration of 1986-91.

The Royal Arcade is a building I have been familiar with through books and photographs for many years. I was pleased to have the opportunity to see it and photograph it even though the dull, damp day wasn't quite what I would have wished for. I was also delighted to find it busy with shoppers, a confirmation of its continuing attraction.

photographs & text (c) T. Boughen

Photo 1 (Photo 2)
Camera: Lumix LX3
Mode: Aperture Priority
Focal Length: 7.4mm (35mm/35mm equiv.) (5.1mm (24mm/35mm equiv.))
F No: f5.6 (f4)
Shutter Speed: 1/800 (1/1000)
ISO: 80
Exposure Compensation: -0.66 EV
Image Stabilisation: On